Patagonia. The very word is synonymous with unspoiled wilderness. In reality, however, European immigrants began redefining this remote stretch of Chile and Argentina a century ago, carving significant portions of its 402,700 square miles into vast private estancias. Over time, many of those sheep and cattle ranches closed, but their impact remains: heavy-gauge wire fences intersecting what was once wide-open grassland, indigenous flora degraded by overgrazing, native puma populations decimated by hunting. Kris and Douglas…