I am old enough to remember when there was maybe one place in a given city in which a person could get a vegan or vegetarian meal. And said vegan or vegetarian meal was often flirting so hard with the health-food cliche that it was hard to celebrate it much as a culinary experience. But times have changed, and not a minute too soon. As more and more people are choosing plant-based foods over ones made with animals, the options are expanding and the results are delicious.