When biologist Stefan Sobkowiak took over the orchard in St-Anicet in 1993, there were very few birds. His commercial apple orchard in the Montérégie region of Quebec, about 90 kilometres southwest of Montreal, was surrounded by non-organic neighbours, and this seemed to impact the bird population, he says. Trained as a biologist and landscape architect, he decided to create an organic orchard, and by 1996 received his organic designation. But over time he realized that…