The milk aisle at the supermarket is a dizzying array of choices, with soy, almond, hemp, and other plant alternatives more popular than ever. But many customers buy these substitute products—whether for health, allergy, or environmental reasons—only to turn around and head straight back for the traditional cheese and yogurt shelves. With the exception of die-hard vegans who manage to tolerate the offensive textures and tastes of fake cheese, the joys of pizza, nachos, and…